Traverse Safety & Risk
Khatling Glacier Expedition — Safety Guide
Altitude physiology, pass crossing go/no-go criteria, evacuation protocol, and insurance requirements.
Primary Hazards
Crevasse fall on Khatling
Severe AMS at Masar Tal
Rockfall on Mayali descent
AMS Protocol
Very high risk due to rapid gain to Masar Tal (16,200ft).
Altitude Physiology — SpO₂ by Camp
Diamox (Acetazolamide)
Recommended
Expedition Medical Kit
Pass Crossing Protocol
GO Conditions
- ✓ Clear sky at 3 AM
- ✓ Wind below 20km/h
NO-GO Conditions
- ✗ Lenticular clouds on Meru peak
- ✗ Fresh snow > 6 inches
Glacier Hazards — Khatling Glacier
Crevasse Zone
Upper Khatling icefall
Crevasse Zone
Mayali Pass approach
Avalanche Path
Mayali east face
Avalanche Path
Jogin massifs
Bergschrund
Visible at the base of Mayali headwall in September.
Incident History — Transparency Log
We publish incident data to help you make informed decisions. All names anonymized.
Year
2018
Incident
AMS
Outcome / Severity
Near-miss at Masar Tal
Evacuation Route
Back to Gangi via Bhilangna valley
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Knowledge Integrity
Help us keep this data ground-truth accurate.
This encyclopedia entry for Khatling Glacier Expedition is curated from a mix of public survey records, first-hand climber accounts, and official permit logs. However, mountains are dynamic. If you have been on this route recently and noticed a change in terrain, water availability, or local regulations, we want to hear from you.
Community Vetted
Last Verified: May 2026
EXPEDITION DATABASE