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Hanuman Tibba Expedition Safety

Summit Safety & Risk

Hanuman Tibba Expedition — Safety Guide

AMS thresholds, glacier hazards, summit day go/no-go decision framework, and emergency contacts.

Technical Specifications

Technical Blueprint v1.0

Hanuman Tibba Expedition

Max GradeD
Gradient55%

Physiology Profile

HAPE RiskExtremely High
Turnaround SPO260%
"Immediate drive down to Keylong."

Summit Protocol

Push Start01:00 AM
Hard Turnaround12:00 PM
Turnaround ReasonHigh winds and exhaustion risk on descent.

Complexity Index

Technicality vs Stok Kangri+75%
Exposure vs Nanda DeviModerate

*Indices calculated based on vertical gain/day and rock/ice angle averages.

Mission Briefing // Tactical Manifest

Terrain Analysis

steep ice slope
glacier
exposed ridge
loose rock
High-Risk Objective Hazards
steep ice fall on Tentu Larockfall on approachexposed ridge fallams_risk

Atmospheric Constraints

Avg Summit Wind
N/A km/h
Jet Stream Risk
High in late September and October

Summit Day Sequence

1
Base Camp departure
2
Scree slope ascent
3
Snow ridge
4
Summit

Primary Hazards

1

Fall on Tentu La 75–80° ice slope

2

Rockfall on loose approach gullies

3

AMS at ABC

4

Weather trap at Advance Camp

AMS Protocol

Rotation cycle to ABC and back to BC is critical. Do not commit to summit attempt without completing rotation.

Altitude Physiology — SpO₂ by Camp

Bharatpur

85

SpO₂

Base Camp

75

SpO₂

Summit

60

SpO₂

Turn-Around Threshold

SpO₂ < 60%

Descend immediately if reading drops below this at rest

Diamox (Acetazolamide)

Recommended

Crucial due to rapid vehicle ascent to 15,000ft.

⚠️ Golden Rule: Immediate drive down to Keylong.

Expedition Medical Kit

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Summit Day Protocol

GO Conditions

  • ✓ Clear skies
  • ✓ Manageable winds

NO-GO Conditions

  • ✗ Whiteout
  • ✗ Extreme jet stream winds

Hard Turn-Around: 12:00 PM

High winds and exhaustion risk on descent.

Glacier Hazards — Hanuman Glacier / Tentu Glacier

Avalanche Path

Tentu Col approach

Avalanche Path

North Face serac zone

Avalanche Path

Summit couloir

Bergschrund

Evacuation Route

Retreat to Beas Kund Base Camp. Trek to Dhundi for vehicle evacuation to Manali hospital.

Mandatory Operator Equipment

Portable Oxygen
Gamow Bag
VHF Radio
300m Fixed Rope
Harness rescue kit

Verify this equipment is included before booking. Compare operator safety standards →

Compare Operators on Safety Standards

See which operators carry certified guides, satellite comms, and medical support for Hanuman Tibba Expedition.

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Still deciding?

Compare routes side-by-side to find the perfect match for your fitness, dates, and budget.

Planning between Hanuman Tibba Expedition and Mt Deo Tibba Expedition? See the full side-by-side →Planning between Hanuman Tibba Expedition and Yunam Peak Expedition? See the full side-by-side →Planning between Hanuman Tibba Expedition and Kanamo Peak Expedition? See the full side-by-side →

Knowledge Integrity

Help us keep this data ground-truth accurate.

This encyclopedia entry for Hanuman Tibba Expedition is curated from a mix of public survey records, first-hand climber accounts, and official permit logs. However, mountains are dynamic. If you have been on this route recently and noticed a change in terrain, water availability, or local regulations, we want to hear from you.

Community Vetted

Last Verified: May 2026

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