Summit Safety & Risk

Black Peak (Kalanag) Expedition — Safety Guide

AMS thresholds, glacier hazards, summit day go/no-go decision framework, and emergency contacts.

Primary Hazards

High altitude sickness (AMS, HACE, HAPE)

Crevasse falls on the glacier

Avalanche risk on steep slopes

Extreme cold and frostbite

Altitude Physiology — SpO₂ by Camp

ABC

SpO₂

Camp 1

SpO₂

Kyarkoti

SpO₂

Summit Camp

SpO₂

Turn-Around Threshold

SpO₂ < 55%

Descend immediately if reading drops below this at rest

Diamox (Acetazolamide)

Recommended

Consult physician, highly recommended given the rapid ascent to ABC.

⚠️ Golden Rule: Descend to Kyarkoti immediately.

Expedition Medical Kit

Summit Day Protocol

GO Conditions

✓ Clear skies
✓ Firm ice
✓ Low winds

NO-GO Conditions

✗ High winds
✗ Fresh snowfall
✗ Whiteout

Hard Turn-Around: 10:00 AM

Ice wall destabilizes with sun exposure, increasing rockfall and avalanche risk.

Glacier Hazards — Bandarpunch Glacier system

Crevasse Zone

Season risk:

⚑

Crevasse Zone

Season risk:

⚑

Avalanche Path

Risk: ·

⚑

Bergschrund

A massive bergschrund often blocks the final 400m summit push.

Emergency Contacts

Emergency line

Evacuation Route

Evacuation is done by physically carrying the patient to Kyarkoti Base Camp, from where helicopter evacuation may be requested depending on weather, or continued manual evacuation to Sankri.

Insurance Requirements

Altitude Cover

21,000 ft

Heli Rescue

Required

Declare These Activities

MountaineeringUse of fixed ropes/ice axes

Recommended Providers

· up to ft · up to ft

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Knowledge Integrity

Help us keep this data ground-truth accurate.

This encyclopedia entry for Black Peak (Kalanag) Expedition is curated from a mix of public survey records, first-hand climber accounts, and official permit logs. However, mountains are dynamic. If you have been on this route recently and noticed a change in terrain, water availability, or local regulations, we want to hear from you.

Community Vetted

Last Verified: May 2026

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