Season & Weather Guide
Best Time for Friendship Peak Expedition — Month-by-Month Guide
Seasonal Overview
The standard climbing windows are May-June (Snow) and September-October (Stable/Dry).
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Peak Season
june, september
Off Season
july, august
Month-by-Month Trail Guide
January
Conditions
Fatal. Avalanche risk.
Crowds
none
Winter
Closed.
February
Conditions
Fatal.
Crowds
none
Winter
Closed.
March
Conditions
Closed.
Crowds
none
Deep snow
Closed.
April
Conditions
Experimental.
Crowds
low
Snow instability
Closed.
May
RecommendedConditions
Opening. Deep snow. Summit possible.
Crowds
low
Heavy snow climb. Very cold nights.
June
RecommendedConditions
The Gold Window. Stable snow pack. Best summit success rate.
Crowds
high
Ideal month. Good snow path to summit.
July
Conditions
Monsoon risk. Landslides on approach.
Crowds
low
Monsoon
Monsoon; high risk of mudslides.
August
Conditions
Heavy Rain. Dangerous glaciers.
Crowds
none
Monsoon
Not recommended.
September
RecommendedConditions
Clarity window. Less snow. Cold nights.
Crowds
medium
Post-monsoon clarity. Rocky summit push.
October
RecommendedConditions
Very Cold. Hard ice on summit. Clear views.
Crowds
low
Sharp peak views. Best for photos.
November
Conditions
Closing. Fresh snow instability.
Crowds
none
Winter
Closed.
December
Conditions
Closed.
Crowds
none
Winter
Closed.
Important Tips
June is preferred for beginners because walking on consolidated snow is easier than hopping over dry boulders in September.
Timing makes or breaks a trek. Send this to your group before you decide.
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