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Season & Weather Guide
Best Time for Friendship Peak Expedition — Month-by-Month Guide
June is the gold window for consolidated snow stability, while September offers crisp air and the sharpest panoramic views of the Pir Panjal range.
Summit Window
When is it climbable?
June provides optimal snow conditions for the glaciated face, while September offers stable skies. The monsoon brings dangerous landslides to the Solang Valley approach.
Season at a Glance
Editor's Notes
May-June and September-October provide the most stable weather and optimal snow conditions for climbing.
Avoid monsoon and winter months due to heavy rain, deep snow, and increased risk.
Month by Month
What each month looks like
January
Conditions
Extreme winter conditions.
Crowds
none
High avalanche risk on the steep snow face and moraines.
Closed. Extreme winter conditions.
February
Conditions
Extreme winter conditions.
Crowds
none
High avalanche risk on the steep snow face and moraines.
Closed. Extreme winter conditions.
March
Conditions
Deep unconsolidated snow.
Crowds
none
Deep snow accumulation masks crevasses on the summit glacier.
Early season. Deep snow accumulations.
April
Conditions
Early season with lingering snow instability.
Crowds
none
Unstable snow conditions on the 40-degree summit incline.
Early season. Deep snow accumulations.
May
RecommendedConditions
Pre-monsoon window opening. Deep snow requires careful navigation.
Crowds
low
Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.
June
RecommendedConditions
Prime conditions. Consolidated snow allows for stable crampon use.
Crowds
low
Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.
July
Conditions
Heavy monsoon rains and low visibility.
Crowds
none
Monsoon downpours cause dangerous landslides on the Solang Valley approach.
Monsoon danger. Landslides and severe rains.
August
Conditions
Heavy monsoon rains and low visibility.
Crowds
none
Monsoon downpours cause dangerous landslides on the Solang Valley approach.
Monsoon danger. Landslides and severe rains.
September
RecommendedConditions
Post-monsoon window. Clear skies with bare ice on the summit push.
Crowds
low
Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.
October
RecommendedConditions
Clear skies, but high winds and extreme cold (-15C).
Crowds
low
Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.
November
Conditions
Winter onset with rapid temperature drops.
Crowds
none
Severe cold and fresh snow instability on the narrow summit ridge.
Winter setting in. Sub-zero temperatures rapid.
December
Conditions
Extreme winter conditions.
Crowds
none
High avalanche risk on the steep snow face and moraines.
Closed. Extreme winter conditions.
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