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Intelligence
Season & Weather Guide
Best Time for Traill's Pass Expedition — Month-by-Month Guide
Extremely narrow windows in May/June or September/October. Requires perfect ice conditions to hold ice screws.
Pass Window
When is it climbable?
Pass Crossing Window
Early Start
01:00 AM – 10:00 AM
Conditions by Month
May
Sep
The window is virtually microscopic. May/June is the only feasible time because the lingering winter snow acts as a bridge over the lethal crevasses of the Pindari icefall. Post-monsoon (September) is practically impossible as the snow bridges melt, exposing impassable glacial chasms.
Season at a Glance
Editor's Notes
Late May to Mid-June is the *only* time this works. You need the residual winter snow to form firm bridges over the massive crevasses.
Month by Month
What each month looks like
January
Pass ClosedConditions
Deep winter. The high pass is completely buried and impassable.
Crowds
none
Impassable winter snowpack.
Closed. Extreme winter conditions.
February
Pass ClosedConditions
Deep winter. The high pass is completely buried and impassable.
Crowds
none
Impassable winter snowpack.
Closed. Extreme winter conditions.
March
Pass ClosedConditions
Deep winter. The high pass is completely buried and impassable.
Crowds
none
Impassable winter snowpack.
Early season. Deep snow accumulations.
April
Pass ClosedConditions
Shoulder season. Highly unstable snow conditions and narrow weather windows.
Crowds
none
Unstable snow conditions.
Early season. Deep snow accumulations.
May
Pass OpenConditions
The prime window. Snow bridges are optimally hard in the morning.
Crowds
low
Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.
June
Pass OpenConditions
Early June works, but as the month progresses, snow bridges melt rapidly, vastly increasing the danger of crevasse falls.
Crowds
low
Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.
July
Conditions
Monsoon season. Extreme objective hazards including rockfall, avalanches, and swollen rivers.
Crowds
none
Severe monsoon hazards.
Monsoon danger. Landslides and severe rains.
August
Conditions
Monsoon season. Extreme objective hazards including rockfall, avalanches, and swollen rivers.
Crowds
none
Severe monsoon hazards.
Monsoon danger. Landslides and severe rains.
September
Conditions
Shoulder season. Highly unstable snow conditions and narrow weather windows.
Crowds
none
Unstable snow conditions.
Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.
October
Conditions
Shoulder season. Highly unstable snow conditions and narrow weather windows.
Crowds
none
Unstable snow conditions.
Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.
November
Pass ClosedConditions
Shoulder season. Highly unstable snow conditions and narrow weather windows.
Crowds
none
Unstable snow conditions.
Winter setting in. Sub-zero temperatures rapid.
December
Pass ClosedConditions
Deep winter. The high pass is completely buried and impassable.
Crowds
none
Impassable winter snowpack.
Closed. Extreme winter conditions.
Photography & Light Conditions
Drones not permitted
Extreme cold.
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