
Season & Weather Guide
Extremely narrow windows in May/June or September/October. Requires perfect ice conditions to hold ice screws.
The window is virtually microscopic. May/June is the only feasible time because the lingering winter snow acts as a bridge over the lethal crevasses of the Pindari icefall. Post-monsoon (September) is practically impossible as the snow bridges melt, exposing impassable glacial chasms.
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Peak Season
may, june
Off Season
july, august, january, february, march, april, september, october, november, december
The Snow Bridge Mandate
Key point
Late May to Mid-June is the *only* time this works. You need the residual winter snow to form firm bridges over the massive crevasses.
Season at a Glance
Conditions
Deadly winter. Closed.
Crowds
none
Closed. Extreme winter conditions.
Conditions
Deadly winter. Closed.
Crowds
none
Closed. Extreme winter conditions.
Conditions
Pass and icefalls utterly buried. Closed.
Crowds
none
Early season. Deep snow accumulations.
Conditions
Expedition teams begin laying supplies. Still too harsh for crossing.
Crowds
none
Early season. Deep snow accumulations.
Conditions
The prime window. Snow bridges are optimally hard in the morning.
Crowds
low
Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.
Conditions
Early June works, but as the month progresses, snow bridges melt rapidly, vastly increasing the danger of crevasse falls.
Crowds
low
Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.
Conditions
Monsoon renders trails to Pindari deadly. Avalanches frequent on the pass. Avoid.
Crowds
none
Monsoon danger. Landslides and severe rains.
Conditions
Heavy monsoons. Avoid.
Crowds
none
Monsoon danger. Landslides and severe rains.
Conditions
The pass is usually exposed bare blue-ice and impassable crevasses. Extreme risk.
Crowds
none
Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.
Conditions
Deep freezing sets in. Ice faces become brittle and dangerous.
Crowds
none
Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.
Conditions
Deadly winter winds. Closed.
Crowds
none
Winter setting in. Sub-zero temperatures rapid.
Conditions
Closed.
Crowds
none
Closed. Extreme winter conditions.
Important Tips
Attempting this in late summer (September) is often a guaranteed failure, as the 'soft' snow cover that allows walking over the glacier melts away, leaving a jagged labyrinth of blue ice.
Best Light Season
Night Skies
Lens Recommendation
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