Summit Window

When is it climbable?

Summit Weather Window

Minimal in summer

Alpine Start

01:00 AM – 09:00 AM

To traverse the loose scree and snow couloirs while they are frozen tight to avoid rockfall.

Conditions by Month

Jul

35 km/h

Lightning Risk

August

Located in the Spiti rain shadow, the best time to attempt this route is during the peak summer months (July-August) when the rest of the Himalayas are flooded. May-June and September-October are also viable but colder.

Season at a Glance

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Peak
Recommended
Shoulder
Closed

Editor's Notes

Editor's Insight

May to October offers the most favorable weather, though high Himalayan conditions remain unpredictable.

Month by Month

What each month looks like

January

Conditions

Extreme winter cold. Deep snow blockage.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero extreme temperatures and heavy snow accumulation.

-35C to -20CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Closed. Extreme winter conditions.

February

Conditions

Extreme winter cold. Deep snow blockage.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero extreme temperatures and heavy snow accumulation.

-33C to -18CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Closed. Extreme winter conditions.

March

Conditions

Extreme winter cold. Deep snow blockage.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero extreme temperatures and heavy snow accumulation.

-23C to -8CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Early season. Deep snow accumulations.

April

Conditions

Deep unconsolidated snow.

Crowds

none

Deep snow accumulation and high avalanche risk on the summit ridge.

-19C to -4CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Early season. Deep snow accumulations.

May

Recommended

Conditions

Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.

Crowds

low

-15C to 0CSnow: MediumSky Clarity:

Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.

June

Recommended

Conditions

Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.

Crowds

low

-12C to 3CSnow: MediumSky Clarity:

Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.

July

Recommended

Conditions

Peak season in rain shadow. Stable skies.

Crowds

low

-10C to 1CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Peak season in rain shadow. River crossings swell.

August

Recommended

Conditions

Peak season in rain shadow. Stable skies.

Crowds

low

-11C to 0CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Peak season in rain shadow. River crossings swell.

September

Recommended

Conditions

Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.

Crowds

low

-15C to -2CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.

October

Recommended

Conditions

Crystal clear skies. Cold.

Crowds

low

-20C to -6CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.

November

Conditions

Winter setting in.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero extreme temperatures and severe jet stream impact.

-25C to -11CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Winter setting in. Sub-zero temperatures rapid.

December

Conditions

Extreme winter cold. Deep snow blockage.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero extreme temperatures and heavy snow accumulation.

-34C to -19CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Closed. Extreme winter conditions.

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