Summit Window

When is it climbable?

Summit Weather Window

Lightning Risk

June & July

The window is exceedingly tight. Pre-monsoon (late May to June) offers the best snow bridges over the crevasses. Post-monsoon (September to October) offers clear skies but terrifyingly exposed blue ice.

Season at a Glance

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Peak
Recommended
Shoulder
Closed

Editor's Notes

Editor's Insight

Month by Month

What each month looks like

January

Conditions

Extreme winter. The Johar and Darma valleys are completely snowed in and evacuated.

Crowds

none

Lethal cold, pass closed.

-30°C to -10°CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Expedition impossible.

February

Conditions

Peak winter conditions. High avalanche risk on the approach.

Crowds

none

Lethal avalanches.

-30°C to -10°CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Expedition impossible.

March

Conditions

Heavy spring snowmelt causing unstable cornices.

Crowds

none

Unstable snowpack.

-25°C to -5°CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Expedition impossible.

April

Conditions

Still too much snow on the glaciers. Munsiyari side begins to clear, but the pass is blocked.

Crowds

none

Pass usually impassable.

-20°C to 0°CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Expedition impossible.

May

Recommended

Conditions

The window opens. Expect deep snow, requiring trail breaking, but crevasses are safely bridged.

Crowds

low

-15°C to 8°CSnow: ModerateSky Clarity:

Best time for snow bridges.

June

Recommended

Conditions

The best pre-monsoon month. Ice conditions are stable for cramponing.

Crowds

low

-10°C to 12°CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Prime mountaineering window.

July

Conditions

Monsoon strikes hard in Kumaon. Zero visibility, terrifying rockfall on the moraines.

Crowds

none

Monsoon storms, rockfall.

-5°C to 15°CSnow: ModerateSky Clarity:

Avoid. Monsoon danger.

August

Conditions

Peak monsoon. Glacial rivers are uncrossable.

Crowds

none

River floods, serac collapse.

-5°C to 15°CSnow: ModerateSky Clarity:

Avoid. Monsoon danger.

September

Recommended

Conditions

Post-monsoon clearing. Skies are crystal clear, but the glacier is stripped of snow, revealing deep, open crevasses.

Crowds

low

-12°C to 10°CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Expect open crevasses. Carry ladders/extra ropes.

October

Recommended

Conditions

Spectacular views but brutal cold sets in. High winds on the 18,471 ft pass.

Crowds

low

-20°C to 5°CSnow: ModerateSky Clarity:

Flawless skies, extreme wind chill.

November

Conditions

Winter storms begin. The pass becomes a death trap of high winds and whiteouts.

Crowds

none

Jet stream winds.

-25°C to -5°CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Pass closed.

December

Conditions

Deep winter. Region evacuated.

Crowds

none

Extreme winter.

-30°C to -10°CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Expedition impossible.

Photography & Light Conditions

Sunrise Spot

Ralam Dhurra Base (Panchachuli views)

Recommended Lenses

162470

Astrophotography

10/10Milky Way: may, sep, oct

Drones not permitted

Banned. Military border zone.

Extreme cold drains batteries instantly.

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