Summit Window

When is it climbable?

Summit Weather Window

High in late September and October

Alpine Start

01:00 AM – 09:00 AM

Avoid midday winds and maximize clear views.

Forecast Source

Meteoblue

Use satellite communicators.

Conditions by Month

Aug

30 km/h
2 rain days

Sep

40 km/h
1 rain days

Lightning Risk

July

May-June provides optimal snow stability for the steep ice dome, while September-October offers clear visibility. The July-August monsoon must be strictly avoided due to severe rockfall risk, avalanche hazards, and highly dangerous wet glacier conditions on the Jagatsukh Glacier.

Season at a Glance

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Peak
Recommended
Shoulder
Closed

Editor's Notes

Editor's Insight

June is the golden month. The pre-monsoon window gives you firm snow on the hanging glacier, stable weather, and the longest daylight hours for a safe summit return.

Month by Month

What each month looks like

January

Conditions

Extreme winter conditions.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero extreme cold and deep snow burial of the route.

-34C to -19CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Closed. Extreme winter conditions.

February

Conditions

Extreme winter conditions.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero extreme cold and deep snow burial of the route.

-32C to -17CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Closed. Extreme winter conditions.

March

Conditions

Deep unconsolidated snow.

Crowds

none

Unstable deep snow and high avalanche risk.

-22C to -7CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Early season. Deep snow accumulations.

April

Conditions

Deep unconsolidated snow.

Crowds

none

Unstable deep snow and high avalanche risk.

-18C to -3CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Early season. Deep snow accumulations.

May

Recommended

Conditions

Best pre-monsoon window. Hard snow on glacier.

Crowds

low

-14C to 1CSnow: MediumSky Clarity:

Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.

June

Recommended

Conditions

Peak pre-monsoon season. Stable weather window.

Crowds

low

-11C to 4CSnow: MediumSky Clarity:

Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.

July

Conditions

Monsoon downpours. Glacier very wet and dangerous.

Crowds

none

Monsoon danger, elevated rockfall, and highly hazardous wet glacier conditions.

-9C to 2CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Peak season in rain shadow. River crossings swell.

August

Conditions

Monsoon downpours. Route hazardous.

Crowds

none

Monsoon danger, elevated rockfall, and highly hazardous wet glacier conditions.

-10C to 1CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Peak season in rain shadow. River crossings swell.

September

Recommended

Conditions

Post-monsoon. Stable skies return. Best autumn window.

Crowds

low

-14C to -1CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.

October

Recommended

Conditions

Cold but clear. Stable conditions for the ice dome.

Crowds

low

-19C to -5CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.

November

Conditions

Winter onset.

Crowds

none

Deep extreme cold and severe jet stream impact.

-24C to -10CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Winter setting in. Sub-zero temperatures rapid.

December

Conditions

Extreme winter conditions.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero extreme cold and deep snow burial of the route.

-33C to -18CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Closed. Extreme winter conditions.

Photography & Light Conditions

Sunrise Spot

Summit ridge

Recommended Lenses

16mm24mm

Astrophotography

10/10Milky Way: jul, aug, sep

Drones not permitted

Strictly banned near highway and military posts.

Cold killing battery fast. Extreme winds.

Still deciding?

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Step 3: Route Intelligence

You've chosen a season.

Now see exactly how the route unfolds day by day, including terrain types and daily altitude profiles.

Explore the Itinerary