
Season & Weather Guide
August–September. Cold nights harden ice on the exposed summit ridge, dramatically improving safety.
July to September. August is the prime window for the most stable weather and consolidated snowpack. Avoid early season (June) when ice on the summit ridge is unconsolidated.
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Peak Season
july, august, september
Off Season
october, november, december, january, february, march, april, may, june
Season Selection
Key point
Book for late August or early September. The night freeze hardens the ice on the ridge, giving your crampons far better purchase than the soft midday slush of July.
Season at a Glance
Conditions
Closed season.
Crowds
none
Winter
Closed. Extreme winter conditions.
Conditions
Closed season.
Crowds
none
Winter
Closed. Extreme winter conditions.
Conditions
Too cold, road closed.
Crowds
none
Road closed
Early season. Deep snow accumulations.
Conditions
Heavy cornices on summit ridge.
Crowds
none
Corniced ridges
Early season. Deep snow accumulations.
Conditions
Unstable early season snow.
Crowds
none
Unstable snow
Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.
Conditions
Too risky. Ridge ice unconsolidated.
Crowds
low
Unconsolidated ice
Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.
Conditions
Opening window. Snow hardening.
Crowds
medium
Peak season in rain shadow. River crossings swell.
Conditions
Best conditions. Peak season. Most attempts and summits.
Crowds
high
Peak season in rain shadow. River crossings swell.
Conditions
Excellent clarity. Cold nights mean harder ice — easier crampon placement.
Crowds
high
Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.
Conditions
High winds begin. Jetstream risk increases rapidly.
Crowds
low
Jetstream winds
Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.
Conditions
Closed.
Crowds
none
Closed
Winter setting in. Sub-zero temperatures rapid.
Conditions
Closed.
Crowds
none
Closed
Closed. Extreme winter conditions.
Best Light Season
Night Skies
Lens Recommendation
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