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Bhagirathi II Peak Expedition
15 Days21,365ft maxUttarakhandAD
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About Bhagirathi II Peak Expedition
15 Days
21,365 FT
AD
Mt. Bhagirathi II (6,512m) is the most popular climbing summit of the Bhagirathi Massif. Positioned over the Chaturangi Bamak, it offers a challenging yet accessible 6,000m climb. The route via the East Face/Ridge requires navigating glacial crevasses, crossing an active bergschrund, and climbing a 45-degree snow-ice wall. It is an ideal climb for mountaineers seeking to transition to high-altitude expedition climbing in the Garhwal Himalayas.
Expedition Highlights
Nandanvan Alpine Meadows
Stunning campsite at 14,400ft looking out over the Gangotri Glacier.
Gaumukh Glacier View
Panoramic views of the massive Gangotri Glacier snout and river origin.
Shivling Pyramid View
Stunning sight of Mt. Shivling rising opposite Nandanvan.
Summit Statistics
First Ascent
1938
Summit Rate
60%
Annual Attempts
~80
Annual Summits
~45
Common Questions
What is the overall climbing difficulty grade of Mt Bhagirathi II?
The climbing grade of Mt Bhagirathi II is classified as AD. This means it involves technical glacier routes, steep snow/ice slopes up to 50 degrees, and exposed ridge traverses requiring rope team dynamics, jumar ascents, and rappelling.
Are there any mandatory physical or trekking prerequisites for the Mt Bhagirathi II expedition?
Yes. Because Mt Bhagirathi II is a technical ~6500m summit, climbers must have high-altitude trekking experience above 5,000m (e.g., Auden's Col, Pin Parvati) and complete a basic mountaineering course (BMC) or have equivalent alpine experience.
Is an IMF peak permit and Liaison Officer required for Mt Bhagirathi II?
Yes. All peaks in India require booking through the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF). For Mt Bhagirathi II (6512m), a Liaison Officer (LO) is strictly mandated by the IMF to accompany the team, manage environmental logs, and coordinate search and rescue if needed.
What is the best season to attempt the Mt Bhagirathi II expedition?
There are two windows: Pre-monsoon (May to June) and Post-monsoon (September to October). Pre-monsoon has more consolidated snow bridging crevasses, while post-monsoon offers extremely clear weather but colder temperatures.
What is the technical crux of the standard route on Mt Bhagirathi II?
The standard route via East Face Standard Route features its main crux at the steep snow ridge and bergschrund crossing above Camp 1 (Sundar Bamak) at 17200ft.
What camp progression is established on the Mt Bhagirathi II expedition?
The progression starts at the base village Gangotri (10170ft). We set up Nandanvan Base Camp at 14400ft, followed by Camp 1 (Sundar Bamak) at 17200ft. A Summit Camp is also established higher up to shorten the final summit day climb.
What boots are mandatory for this expedition?
For Mt Bhagirathi II, B3 double mountaineering boots (e.g., La Sportiva Spantik or Scarpa Phantom 6000) are strictly mandatory. Double boots protect against frostbite in sub-zero temperatures (down to -25°C) and provide the necessary stiffness for vertical front-pointing on ice.
Where is the nearest medical emergency facility and evacuation route for Mt Bhagirathi II?
Evacuation is via Descent to Nandanvan, manual transport to Gangotri, vehicle to Uttarkashi Hospital.. The nearest hospital is located in Uttarkashi (District Hospital) or Joshimath (Army/Civil Hospital), which has facilities for treating acute mountain sickness (AMS) and traumatic injuries.
How do we source water during the expedition camps?
At Nandanvan Base Camp, water is sourced directly from glacial meltwater streams using filtration. At higher camps like Camp 1 (Sundar Bamak), all running water is frozen, requiring team members to collect clean snow and melt it using high-altitude multi-fuel stoves.
What is the acclimatization rotation schedule for this climb?
We follow the "climb high, sleep low" rule. Climbers will perform a load ferry from Nandanvan Base Camp to Camp 1 (Sundar Bamak), caching gear, and return to sleep at the lower camp. This triggers red blood cell production before moving up permanently.
Is satellite communication available during the expedition?
Satellite phones (like Thuraya or Iridium) are restricted in India. However, the expedition leader carries an authorized satellite communicator (like Garmin inReach) for weather reports and emergency SOS signals, registered with local authorities.
Where is the last ATM and cellular network location?
The last ATM and cellular connectivity is at Gangotri or the nearest highway town. Once we trek past the road head, there is zero mobile signal, and satellite/VHF radios are the only forms of communication.
What is the local cultural significance of Mt Bhagirathi II?
The massif symbolizes the spiritual descent of the River Ganges, guided by King Bhagiratha.
What is the estimated success rate for summits on Mt Bhagirathi II?
The average success rate is approximately 55%. Success depends heavily on weather windows, team physical preparation, and individual acclimatization.
What high-altitude emergency medicines are carried?
The medical kit contains Diamox (acetazolamide) for AMS, Dexamethasone for HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema), and Nifedipine for HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema). Oxygen cylinders are kept at Base Camp and High Camp for emergencies.
What is the overall climbing difficulty grade of Mt Bhagirathi II?
The climbing grade of Mt Bhagirathi II is classified as AD. This means it involves technical glacier routes, steep snow/ice slopes up to 50 degrees, and exposed ridge traverses requiring rope team dynamics, jumar ascents, and rappelling.
Are there any mandatory physical or trekking prerequisites for the Mt Bhagirathi II expedition?
Yes. Because Mt Bhagirathi II is a technical ~6500m summit, climbers must have high-altitude trekking experience above 5,000m (e.g., Auden's Col, Pin Parvati) and complete a basic mountaineering course (BMC) or have equivalent alpine experience.
Is an IMF peak permit and Liaison Officer required for Mt Bhagirathi II?
Yes. All peaks in India require booking through the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF). For Mt Bhagirathi II (6512m), a Liaison Officer (LO) is strictly mandated by the IMF to accompany the team, manage environmental logs, and coordinate search and rescue if needed.
What is the best season to attempt the Mt Bhagirathi II expedition?
There are two windows: Pre-monsoon (May to June) and Post-monsoon (September to October). Pre-monsoon has more consolidated snow bridging crevasses, while post-monsoon offers extremely clear weather but colder temperatures.
What is the technical crux of the standard route on Mt Bhagirathi II?
The standard route via East Face Standard Route features its main crux at the steep snow ridge and bergschrund crossing above Camp 1 (Sundar Bamak) at 17200ft.
What camp progression is established on the Mt Bhagirathi II expedition?
The progression starts at the base village Gangotri (10170ft). We set up Nandanvan Base Camp at 14400ft, followed by Camp 1 (Sundar Bamak) at 17200ft. A Summit Camp is also established higher up to shorten the final summit day climb.
What boots are mandatory for this expedition?
For Mt Bhagirathi II, B3 double mountaineering boots (e.g., La Sportiva Spantik or Scarpa Phantom 6000) are strictly mandatory. Double boots protect against frostbite in sub-zero temperatures (down to -25°C) and provide the necessary stiffness for vertical front-pointing on ice.
Where is the nearest medical emergency facility and evacuation route for Mt Bhagirathi II?
Evacuation is via Descent to Nandanvan, manual transport to Gangotri, vehicle to Uttarkashi Hospital.. The nearest hospital is located in Uttarkashi (District Hospital) or Joshimath (Army/Civil Hospital), which has facilities for treating acute mountain sickness (AMS) and traumatic injuries.
How do we source water during the expedition camps?
At Nandanvan Base Camp, water is sourced directly from glacial meltwater streams using filtration. At higher camps like Camp 1 (Sundar Bamak), all running water is frozen, requiring team members to collect clean snow and melt it using high-altitude multi-fuel stoves.
What is the acclimatization rotation schedule for this climb?
We follow the "climb high, sleep low" rule. Climbers will perform a load ferry from Nandanvan Base Camp to Camp 1 (Sundar Bamak), caching gear, and return to sleep at the lower camp. This triggers red blood cell production before moving up permanently.
Is satellite communication available during the expedition?
Satellite phones (like Thuraya or Iridium) are restricted in India. However, the expedition leader carries an authorized satellite communicator (like Garmin inReach) for weather reports and emergency SOS signals, registered with local authorities.
Where is the last ATM and cellular network location?
The last ATM and cellular connectivity is at Gangotri or the nearest highway town. Once we trek past the road head, there is zero mobile signal, and satellite/VHF radios are the only forms of communication.
What is the local cultural significance of Mt Bhagirathi II?
The massif symbolizes the spiritual descent of the River Ganges, guided by King Bhagiratha.
What is the estimated success rate for summits on Mt Bhagirathi II?
The average success rate is approximately 55%. Success depends heavily on weather windows, team physical preparation, and individual acclimatization.
What high-altitude emergency medicines are carried?
The medical kit contains Diamox (acetazolamide) for AMS, Dexamethasone for HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema), and Nifedipine for HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema). Oxygen cylinders are kept at Base Camp and High Camp for emergencies.
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