Summit Window

When is it climbable?

Summit Weather Window

Severe from November through winter

Alpine Start

01:00 AM – 09:00 AM

Avoid afternoon wind deterioration and high temperatures melting snow bridges.

Forecast Source

Meteoblue / Mountain-Forecast

Verify satellite forecasting reports before final summit push.

Conditions by Month

May

30 km/h
4 rain days

Jun

25 km/h
6 rain days

Oct

40 km/h
2 rain days

Sep

35 km/h
4 rain days

Lightning Risk

July & August

May-June and September-October offer the most reliable conditions for glacier travel, crossing the bergschrund, and ascending the 45-degree snow-ice wall. Peak summer monsoon months are highly dangerous due to rockfall and lightning, while winter brings severe jet stream winds and high avalanche risk.

Season at a Glance

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Peak
Recommended
Shoulder
Closed

Editor's Notes

Editor's Insight

May-June offers consolidated snow corridors, while September-October post-monsoon offers stable skies but extremely cold summit temperatures.

Month by Month

What each month looks like

January

Conditions

Extreme winter conditions with severe blizzards.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero temperatures and high winter avalanche risk dominate.

-32C to -17CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Closed. Extreme winter conditions.

February

Conditions

Extreme winter conditions with deep snow accumulation.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero temperatures and high winter avalanche risk dominate.

-30C to -15CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Closed. Extreme winter conditions.

March

Conditions

Early season with deep, unconsolidated snow.

Crowds

none

Deep unconsolidated snow increases avalanche risk on the 45-degree snow-ice wall.

-25C to -10CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Early season. Deep snow accumulations.

April

Conditions

Deep unconsolidated snow.

Crowds

none

Significant lingering snow and high avalanche risk on steep slopes.

-21C to -6CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Early season. Deep snow accumulations.

May

Recommended

Conditions

Consolidated snow provides better bridging over glacial crevasses and the bergschrund.

Crowds

low

-17C to -2CSnow: MediumSky Clarity:

Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.

June

Recommended

Conditions

Pre-monsoon warmth with generally stable weather and consolidated snow.

Crowds

low

-14C to 1CSnow: MediumSky Clarity:

Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.

July

Conditions

Heavy monsoon rainfall and elevated lightning risk.

Crowds

none

Monsoon weather significantly increases rockfall and lightning hazards.

-12C to -1CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Monsoon danger. Landslides and severe rains.

August

Conditions

Heavy monsoon rainfall and elevated lightning risk.

Crowds

none

Monsoon weather significantly increases rockfall and lightning hazards.

-13C to -2CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Monsoon danger. Landslides and severe rains.

September

Recommended

Conditions

Clear skies and stable weather, though crevasses may be more exposed.

Crowds

low

-17C to -4CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.

October

Recommended

Conditions

Clear skies and stable weather, though crevasses may be more exposed.

Crowds

low

-22C to -8CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.

November

Conditions

Cold but stable weather. Severe jet stream impact begins.

Crowds

none

Extreme cold and severe jet stream winds on the summit ridge.

-27C to -13CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Winter setting in. Sub-zero temperatures rapid.

December

Conditions

Extreme winter conditions with severe blizzards.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero temperatures, severe jet stream impact, and high winter avalanche risk.

-31C to -16CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Closed. Extreme winter conditions.

Photography & Light Conditions

Sunrise Spot

Summit ridge / high camp looking east.

Recommended Lenses

16-35mm wide angle70-200mm telephoto

Astrophotography

10/10Milky Way: may, jun, jul, aug, sep

Drones not permitted

Requires DGCA permission; usually restricted due to close proximity to borders.

Sub-zero temperatures rapidly draining batteries. Keep devices in inner clothing pockets.

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