
Season & Weather Guide
Mid-June to early October. Earlier crossings face massive snow accumulation.
The trekking window is microscopically small. It is exclusively an end-of-summer and early-autumn route. Attempting it outside of a 6-week window in late August and September invites overwhelming risk.
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Peak Season
september
Off Season
january, february, march, april, may, june, july, august, october, november, december
September Melt
Key point
September allows you to visibly see the black cracks of the crevasses against the white ice. In early summer, they are hidden under soft snow, framing lethal traps.
Season at a Glance
Conditions
Buried.
Crowds
none
Closed. Extreme winter conditions.
Conditions
Buried.
Crowds
none
Closed. Extreme winter conditions.
Conditions
Buried. Avalanches common.
Crowds
none
Early season. Deep snow accumulations.
Conditions
Buried.
Crowds
none
Early season. Deep snow accumulations.
Conditions
Highly unstable conditions. Glaciers are unpredictable.
Crowds
none
Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.
Conditions
Deep, exhausting snow. Requires massive effort.
Crowds
none
Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.
Conditions
Monsoon renders rock approaches deadly slippery.
Crowds
none
Peak season in rain shadow. River crossings swell.
Conditions
As rains decrease, the route becomes viable, but glaciers are wet.
Crowds
none
Peak season in rain shadow. River crossings swell.
Conditions
The absolute perfect window. Stable ice and clear skies.
Crowds
low
Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.
Conditions
Usable early in the month, but brutally cold. High risk of snow traps.
Crowds
none
Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.
Conditions
Closed. Pass freezes over entirely.
Crowds
none
Winter setting in. Sub-zero temperatures rapid.
Conditions
Closed.
Crowds
none
Closed. Extreme winter conditions.
Important Tips
Late September is paradoxically safer because the snow bridges over the crevasses have melted, allowing you to clearly see and navigate the massive cracks in the ice.
Best Light Season
Night Skies
Lens Recommendation
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