Summit Window

When is it climbable?

Summit Weather Window

Lightning Risk

June & July

The expedition has two distinct windows: pre-monsoon (late May to June) with stable snow bridges, and post-monsoon (September to early October) with clear skies but exposed crevasses.

Season at a Glance

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Peak
Recommended
Shoulder
Closed

Editor's Notes

Editor's Insight

Month by Month

What each month looks like

January

Conditions

Extreme winter. Entire region is under heavy snow. Road to Govindghat often blocked.

Crowds

none

Deep winter snow, lethal cold.

-25°C to -10°CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Expedition impossible.

February

Conditions

Peak winter. High avalanche risk on the approach.

Crowds

none

Avalanche danger.

-25°C to -10°CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Expedition impossible.

March

Conditions

Spring snowmelt causes massive, unpredictable avalanches on the headwalls.

Crowds

none

Unstable snowpack.

-20°C to -5°CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Expedition impossible.

April

Conditions

Trails are still buried. Ghangaria is largely inaccessible.

Crowds

none

Route closed.

-15°C to 0°CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Expedition impossible.

May

Recommended

Conditions

Late May opens the window. Deep snow requires intense trail breaking, but crevasses are safely bridged.

Crowds

low

-10°C to 10°CSnow: ModerateSky Clarity:

Best time for stable snow bridges over crevasses.

June

Recommended

Conditions

Prime pre-monsoon window. Stable ice for cramponing, though afternoon storms are common.

Crowds

low

-5°C to 12°CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Prime mountaineering window.

July

Conditions

Pilgrim season peaks in Ghangaria, but the glacier beyond is a death trap of collapsing seracs due to monsoon rain.

Crowds

low

Monsoon storms, serac collapse.

0°C to 15°CSnow: ModerateSky Clarity:

Avoid entirely due to monsoon glacier instability.

August

Conditions

Peak monsoon. Trails wash away. Absolutely no glacier travel recommended.

Crowds

low

Monsoon washouts.

0°C to 15°CSnow: ModerateSky Clarity:

Avoid entirely.

September

Recommended

Conditions

Post-monsoon clearing. Skies are crystal clear. However, snow bridges have melted, exposing massive crevasses that require complex ladder/rope work.

Crowds

low

-8°C to 10°CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Prime window. Expect exposed blue ice and open crevasses.

October

Recommended

Conditions

First two weeks offer sharp views but brutal cold sets in. High winds on the 16,732 ft pass.

Crowds

low

-15°C to 5°CSnow: ModerateSky Clarity:

Flawless skies but extreme wind chill. Window closes by mid-October.

November

Conditions

Winter storms begin. Jet stream winds make the pass un-crossable.

Crowds

none

Jet stream winds, early winter.

-20°C to -5°CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Pass closed.

December

Conditions

Deep winter. Region evacuated.

Crowds

none

Extreme winter.

-25°C to -10°CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Expedition impossible.

Photography & Light Conditions

Sunrise Spot

Base Camp (Nilgiri Parbat views)

Recommended Lenses

162470

Astrophotography

10/10Milky Way: may, sep, oct

Drones not permitted

Banned in Valley of Flowers National Park and border zones.

Batteries die rapidly in the cold.

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