Season & Weather Guide
Best Time for Audens Col Expedition — Month-by-Month Guide
Extremely narrow windows: Mid-May to June (avalanche risk) or September (exposed blue ice and crevasses).
Seasonal Overview
There are only two extremely narrow windows to safely attempt Auden's Col. Pre-monsoon (Mid-May to June) offers stable snow bridges over crevasses but severe avalanche risks. Post-monsoon (September to early October) offers stable weather but exposed blue ice and fully open crevasses.
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Peak Season
september, june
Off Season
july, august, january, february, march, april, november, december
Seasonal Shift
Key point
September generally requires more technical ice-climbing skills due to melted snow exposing sheer ice. June relies heavily on snow-bridges holding your weight.
Season at a Glance
Month-by-Month Trail Guide
January
Conditions
Expedition closed. Lethal winter conditions.
Crowds
none
Closed. Extreme winter conditions.
February
Conditions
Expedition closed.
Crowds
none
Closed. Extreme winter conditions.
March
Conditions
Expedition closed.
Crowds
none
Early season. Deep snow accumulations.
April
Conditions
Deep unstable snow. High avalanche threat on the Col.
Crowds
none
Early season. Deep snow accumulations.
May
RecommendedConditions
Window opens mid-May. Snow bridges cover the Khatling crevasses safely.
Crowds
low
Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.
June
RecommendedConditions
Prime pre-monsoon window before heavy clouds disrupt visibility.
Crowds
low
Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.
July
Conditions
Monsoon renders the icefall lethal and the approach valleys flood.
Crowds
none
Monsoon danger. Landslides and severe rains.
August
Conditions
Monsoon renders the icefall lethal and the approach valleys flood.
Crowds
none
Monsoon danger. Landslides and severe rains.
September
RecommendedConditions
Crystal clear skies. Snow bridges have melted exposing massive crevasses (requires careful rope navigation).
Crowds
medium
Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.
October
RecommendedConditions
Window closes by mid-October as extreme jet-stream winds return to the 18,000ft ridges.
Crowds
low
Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.
November
Conditions
Expedition closed.
Crowds
none
Winter setting in. Sub-zero temperatures rapid.
December
Conditions
Expedition closed.
Crowds
none
Closed. Extreme winter conditions.
Important Tips
Do not attempt crossing if a storm rolls in. Wait it out in Advanced Base Camp. The descent onto Khatling in white-out conditions is a death trap.
Weather Windows & Wind Patterns
Photography & Light Conditions
Best Light Season
Night Skies
Lens Recommendation
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