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Summit Peak
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Mana Peak Expedition
22 Days23,858ft maxUttarakhandAD+
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About Mana Peak Expedition
22 Days
23,858 FT
AD+
Mt. Mana Peak (7,272m) is a giant of the Garhwal Himalayas rising near the Tibet border. Positioned north of Badrinath and next to Mt. Kamet, it is a highly challenging 7,000m mountaineering objective. The route via the Mana Glacier is a long, cold, and glacier-bound walk with a final steep snow-ice ridge (45-55 degrees) below the summit. It requires multiple rotation camps, heavy logisitic support, and proven high-altitude experience.
Expedition Highlights
Mana Village
The last Indian village before the border, famous for its cultural heritage and caves.
Mana Glacier Snout
Giant glacial mouth source of the Saraswati River.
Summit View of Tibet
Spectacular views looking down on the dry Tibetan plateau from the summit.
Summit Statistics
First Ascent
1937
Summit Rate
60%
Annual Attempts
~80
Annual Summits
~45
Common Questions
What is the overall climbing difficulty grade of Mt Mana Peak?
The climbing grade of Mt Mana Peak is classified as AD+. This means it involves technical glacier routes, steep snow/ice slopes up to 50 degrees, and exposed ridge traverses requiring rope team dynamics, jumar ascents, and rappelling.
Are there any mandatory physical or trekking prerequisites for the Mt Mana Peak expedition?
Yes. Because Mt Mana Peak rises above 7,000m (23858ft), you must have successfully summitted at least one technical 6,000m peak (like Stok Kangri, Kang Yatse, or Mentok) and be capable of carrying a 15kg load on steep moraine.
Is an IMF peak permit and Liaison Officer required for Mt Mana Peak?
Yes. All peaks in India require booking through the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF). For Mt Mana Peak (7272m), a Liaison Officer (LO) is strictly mandated by the IMF to accompany the team, manage environmental logs, and coordinate search and rescue if needed.
What is the best season to attempt the Mt Mana Peak expedition?
There are two windows: Pre-monsoon (May to June) and Post-monsoon (September to October). Pre-monsoon has more consolidated snow bridging crevasses, while post-monsoon offers extremely clear weather but colder temperatures.
What is the technical crux of the standard route on Mt Mana Peak?
The standard route via East Face Standard Route features its main crux at the glacier icefall crevasses and the steep headwall below the summit plateau.
What camp progression is established on the Mt Mana Peak expedition?
The progression starts at the base village Mana (10500ft). We set up Mana Glacier Base Camp at 15500ft, followed by Camp 1 (Mana Glacier) at 18200ft. A Summit Camp is also established higher up to shorten the final summit day climb.
What boots are mandatory for this expedition?
For Mt Mana Peak, B3 double mountaineering boots (e.g., La Sportiva Spantik or Scarpa Phantom 6000) are strictly mandatory. Double boots protect against frostbite in sub-zero temperatures (down to -25°C) and provide the necessary stiffness for vertical front-pointing on ice.
Where is the nearest medical emergency facility and evacuation route for Mt Mana Peak?
Evacuation is via Technical descent to Base Camp, manual transport to Mana road head, vehicle to Joshimath Military Hospital.. The nearest hospital is located in Uttarkashi (District Hospital) or Joshimath (Army/Civil Hospital), which has facilities for treating acute mountain sickness (AMS) and traumatic injuries.
How do we source water during the expedition camps?
At Mana Glacier Base Camp, water is sourced directly from glacial meltwater streams using filtration. At higher camps like Camp 1 (Mana Glacier), all running water is frozen, requiring team members to collect clean snow and melt it using high-altitude multi-fuel stoves.
What is the acclimatization rotation schedule for this climb?
We follow the "climb high, sleep low" rule. Climbers will perform a load ferry from Mana Glacier Base Camp to Camp 1 (Mana Glacier), caching gear, and return to sleep at the lower camp. This triggers red blood cell production before moving up permanently.
Is satellite communication available during the expedition?
Satellite phones (like Thuraya or Iridium) are restricted in India. However, the expedition leader carries an authorized satellite communicator (like Garmin inReach) for weather reports and emergency SOS signals, registered with local authorities.
Where is the last ATM and cellular network location?
The last ATM and cellular connectivity is at Mana or the nearest highway town. Once we trek past the road head, there is zero mobile signal, and satellite/VHF radios are the only forms of communication.
What is the local cultural significance of Mt Mana Peak?
Named in honor of Mana village, which is associated with the mythological journey of the Pandavas to heaven.
What is the estimated success rate for summits on Mt Mana Peak?
The average success rate is approximately 55%. Success depends heavily on weather windows, team physical preparation, and individual acclimatization.
What high-altitude emergency medicines are carried?
The medical kit contains Diamox (acetazolamide) for AMS, Dexamethasone for HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema), and Nifedipine for HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema). Oxygen cylinders are kept at Base Camp and High Camp for emergencies.
What is the overall climbing difficulty grade of Mt Mana Peak?
The climbing grade of Mt Mana Peak is classified as AD+. This means it involves technical glacier routes, steep snow/ice slopes up to 50 degrees, and exposed ridge traverses requiring rope team dynamics, jumar ascents, and rappelling.
Are there any mandatory physical or trekking prerequisites for the Mt Mana Peak expedition?
Yes. Because Mt Mana Peak rises above 7,000m (23858ft), you must have successfully summitted at least one technical 6,000m peak (like Stok Kangri, Kang Yatse, or Mentok) and be capable of carrying a 15kg load on steep moraine.
Is an IMF peak permit and Liaison Officer required for Mt Mana Peak?
Yes. All peaks in India require booking through the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF). For Mt Mana Peak (7272m), a Liaison Officer (LO) is strictly mandated by the IMF to accompany the team, manage environmental logs, and coordinate search and rescue if needed.
What is the best season to attempt the Mt Mana Peak expedition?
There are two windows: Pre-monsoon (May to June) and Post-monsoon (September to October). Pre-monsoon has more consolidated snow bridging crevasses, while post-monsoon offers extremely clear weather but colder temperatures.
What is the technical crux of the standard route on Mt Mana Peak?
The standard route via East Face Standard Route features its main crux at the glacier icefall crevasses and the steep headwall below the summit plateau.
What camp progression is established on the Mt Mana Peak expedition?
The progression starts at the base village Mana (10500ft). We set up Mana Glacier Base Camp at 15500ft, followed by Camp 1 (Mana Glacier) at 18200ft. A Summit Camp is also established higher up to shorten the final summit day climb.
What boots are mandatory for this expedition?
For Mt Mana Peak, B3 double mountaineering boots (e.g., La Sportiva Spantik or Scarpa Phantom 6000) are strictly mandatory. Double boots protect against frostbite in sub-zero temperatures (down to -25°C) and provide the necessary stiffness for vertical front-pointing on ice.
Where is the nearest medical emergency facility and evacuation route for Mt Mana Peak?
Evacuation is via Technical descent to Base Camp, manual transport to Mana road head, vehicle to Joshimath Military Hospital.. The nearest hospital is located in Uttarkashi (District Hospital) or Joshimath (Army/Civil Hospital), which has facilities for treating acute mountain sickness (AMS) and traumatic injuries.
How do we source water during the expedition camps?
At Mana Glacier Base Camp, water is sourced directly from glacial meltwater streams using filtration. At higher camps like Camp 1 (Mana Glacier), all running water is frozen, requiring team members to collect clean snow and melt it using high-altitude multi-fuel stoves.
What is the acclimatization rotation schedule for this climb?
We follow the "climb high, sleep low" rule. Climbers will perform a load ferry from Mana Glacier Base Camp to Camp 1 (Mana Glacier), caching gear, and return to sleep at the lower camp. This triggers red blood cell production before moving up permanently.
Is satellite communication available during the expedition?
Satellite phones (like Thuraya or Iridium) are restricted in India. However, the expedition leader carries an authorized satellite communicator (like Garmin inReach) for weather reports and emergency SOS signals, registered with local authorities.
Where is the last ATM and cellular network location?
The last ATM and cellular connectivity is at Mana or the nearest highway town. Once we trek past the road head, there is zero mobile signal, and satellite/VHF radios are the only forms of communication.
What is the local cultural significance of Mt Mana Peak?
Named in honor of Mana village, which is associated with the mythological journey of the Pandavas to heaven.
What is the estimated success rate for summits on Mt Mana Peak?
The average success rate is approximately 55%. Success depends heavily on weather windows, team physical preparation, and individual acclimatization.
What high-altitude emergency medicines are carried?
The medical kit contains Diamox (acetazolamide) for AMS, Dexamethasone for HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema), and Nifedipine for HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema). Oxygen cylinders are kept at Base Camp and High Camp for emergencies.
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