Summit Window

When is it climbable?

Summit Weather Window

High in late September and October

Alpine Start

01:00 AM – 09:00 AM

Avoid midday winds and maximize clear views.

Forecast Source

Meteoblue

Use satellite communicators.

Conditions by Month

Aug

30 km/h
2 rain days

Sep

40 km/h
1 rain days

Lightning Risk

July

August and September provide the most reliable windows for this double-summit expedition. August offers optimal hard snowpack and maximum weather stability across both peaks, while September provides crisp visibility but colder recovery nights.

Season at a Glance

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Peak
Recommended
Shoulder
Closed

Editor's Notes

Editor's Insight

Book for the first two weeks of August. This gives you the best odds of a stable 5-day weather window to complete both summits.

Month by Month

What each month looks like

January

Conditions

Extreme winter conditions.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero temperatures and impassable deep snow.

-36C to -21CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Closed. Extreme winter conditions.

February

Conditions

Extreme winter conditions.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero temperatures and impassable deep snow.

-34C to -19CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Closed. Extreme winter conditions.

March

Conditions

Deep unconsolidated snow.

Crowds

none

Extreme cold and deep unconsolidated snow.

-24C to -9CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Early season. Deep snow accumulations.

April

Conditions

Deep unconsolidated snow.

Crowds

none

High avalanche risk and unstable snowpack.

-20C to -5CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Early season. Deep snow accumulations.

May

Conditions

Unstable conditions for double summit.

Crowds

none

Deep unstable snow and high avalanche risk on steep slopes.

-16C to -1CSnow: MediumSky Clarity:

Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.

June

Conditions

Soft snowpack on both summits.

Crowds

none

Dangerously soft snow rendering a double summit too risky.

-13C to 2CSnow: MediumSky Clarity:

Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.

July

Conditions

Soft snow on the second summit day.

Crowds

none

Soft snow on the second summit day increasing fatigue and objective hazard.

-11C to 0CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Peak season in rain shadow. River crossings swell.

August

Recommended

Conditions

Optimal. Hard snowpack on both summits. Maximum weather stability.

Crowds

low

-12C to -1CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Peak season in rain shadow. River crossings swell.

September

Recommended

Conditions

Good conditions but cold recovery nights between summits.

Crowds

low

-16C to -3CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.

October

Conditions

High jetstream winds.

Crowds

none

Severe jet stream impact and extreme cold making recovery impossible.

-21C to -7CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.

November

Conditions

Winter onset.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero extreme temperatures and severe jet stream winds.

-26C to -12CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Winter setting in. Sub-zero temperatures rapid.

December

Conditions

Extreme winter conditions.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero temperatures and impassable deep snow.

-35C to -20CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Closed. Extreme winter conditions.

Photography & Light Conditions

Sunrise Spot

Summit ridge

Recommended Lenses

16mm24mm

Astrophotography

10/10Milky Way: jul, aug, sep

Drones not permitted

Strictly banned near highway and military posts.

Cold killing battery fast. Extreme winds.

Still deciding?

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Step 3: Route Intelligence

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Now see exactly how the route unfolds day by day, including terrain types and daily altitude profiles.

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