Summit Window

When is it climbable?

Summit Weather Window

Severe from November through winter

Alpine Start

01:00 AM – 09:00 AM

Avoid afternoon wind deterioration and high temperatures melting snow bridges.

Forecast Source

Meteoblue / Mountain-Forecast

Verify satellite forecasting reports before final summit push.

Conditions by Month

May

30 km/h
4 rain days

Jun

25 km/h
6 rain days

Oct

40 km/h
2 rain days

Sep

35 km/h
4 rain days

Lightning Risk

July & August

May-June (pre-monsoon) and September-October (post-monsoon) offer consolidated snow and stable skies for the Northeast Ridge and steep snow couloirs. The July-August monsoon must be avoided due to heavy rains, landslide risks on approach roads, and severe crevasse hazards on the Trishul Glacier.

Season at a Glance

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Peak
Recommended
Shoulder
Closed

Editor's Notes

Editor's Insight

May-June offers consolidated snow corridors, while September-October post-monsoon offers stable skies but extremely cold summit temperatures.

Month by Month

What each month looks like

January

Conditions

Extreme winter conditions.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero blizzard conditions, high winter avalanche risk, and impassable deep snow in the glacial basins.

-36C to -21CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Closed. Extreme winter conditions.

February

Conditions

Extreme winter conditions.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero blizzard conditions, high winter avalanche risk, and impassable deep snow in the glacial basins.

-34C to -19CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Closed. Extreme winter conditions.

March

Conditions

Deep unconsolidated snow.

Crowds

none

High winter avalanche risk and impassable deep snow in the glacial basins.

-29C to -14CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Early season. Deep snow accumulations.

April

Conditions

Deep unconsolidated snow.

Crowds

none

High winter avalanche risk and impassable deep snow in the glacial basins.

-25C to -10CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Early season. Deep snow accumulations.

May

Recommended

Conditions

Consolidated snow cover, excellent visibility, and stable weather.

Crowds

low

-21C to -6CSnow: MediumSky Clarity:

Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.

June

Recommended

Conditions

Consolidated snow cover, excellent visibility, and stable weather.

Crowds

low

-18C to -3CSnow: MediumSky Clarity:

Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.

July

Conditions

Monsoon downpours. Active landslides. Crevasse hazards.

Crowds

none

Heavy monsoon rains, landslide risks on approach roads, and severe crevasse hazards on the Trishul Glacier.

-16C to -5CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Monsoon danger. Landslides and severe rains.

August

Conditions

Monsoon downpours. Active landslides. Crevasse hazards.

Crowds

none

Heavy monsoon rains, landslide risks on approach roads, and severe crevasse hazards on the Trishul Glacier.

-17C to -6CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Monsoon danger. Landslides and severe rains.

September

Recommended

Conditions

Consolidated snow cover, excellent visibility, and stable weather.

Crowds

low

-21C to -8CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.

October

Recommended

Conditions

Consolidated snow cover, excellent visibility, and stable weather.

Crowds

low

-26C to -12CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.

November

Conditions

Winter onset.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero extreme temperatures and severe jet stream impact.

-31C to -17CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Winter setting in. Sub-zero temperatures rapid.

December

Conditions

Extreme winter conditions.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero blizzard conditions, high winter avalanche risk, and impassable deep snow in the glacial basins.

-35C to -20CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Closed. Extreme winter conditions.

Photography & Light Conditions

Sunrise Spot

Summit ridge / high camp looking east.

Recommended Lenses

16-35mm wide angle70-200mm telephoto

Astrophotography

10/10Milky Way: may, jun, jul, aug, sep

Drones not permitted

Requires DGCA permission; usually restricted due to close proximity to borders.

Sub-zero temperatures rapidly draining batteries. Keep devices in inner clothing pockets.

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