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Mentok Kangri II Peak Expedition
12 Days20,505ft maxLadakhPD+
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About Mentok Kangri II Peak Expedition
12 Days
20,505 FT
PD+
Mentok Kangri II (6,250m) is a prominent summit rising above the pristine turquoise waters of Tso Moriri Lake in Ladakh’s high-altitude Rupshu shelf. Meaning "Flower Peak" in Tibetan, it offers an incredible introduction to 6,000m technical mountaineering. The climb involves crossing high-altitude scree fields, navigating glacier fields, and scaling a moderately steep snow slope on the ridge. The base village Karzok is already situated at 15,000ft, which requires rigorous prior acclimatization but offers a shorter trek approach than Markha peaks.
Expedition Highlights
Tso Moriri Lake Overview
Breathtaking bird’s-eye perspective of the 28km long cobalt blue lake from the high ridges.
Karzok Monastery
A historic 350-year-old Buddhist monastery sitting at the edge of the lake.
Chumathang Hot Springs
Geothermal hot springs along the Indus river passed during the drive from Leh.
Summit Statistics
First Ascent
1984
Summit Rate
60%
Annual Attempts
~80
Annual Summits
~45
Common Questions
What is the overall climbing difficulty grade of Mentok Kangri II?
The climbing grade of Mentok Kangri II is classified as PD+. This means it involves moderate glacier travel, simple snow slopes, and low-angle scree requiring basic crampon and ice axe usage.
Are there any mandatory physical or trekking prerequisites for the Mentok Kangri II expedition?
Yes. We recommend a history of high-altitude treks above 15,000ft (like Roopkund or Goechala) and a high level of cardiovascular fitness (10km run under 55 minutes).
Is an IMF peak permit and Liaison Officer required for Mentok Kangri II?
Yes. All peaks in India require booking through the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF). For Mentok Kangri II (6250m), an IMF peak permit is required, but a Liaison Officer is generally not mandated unless requested by the IMF for international teams.
What is the best season to attempt the Mentok Kangri II expedition?
The ideal window is July to September. Since Ladakh lies in a rain-shadow zone, it escapes the Indian monsoons, offering dry weather, open roads, and stable glacier crossings.
What is the technical crux of the standard route on Mentok Kangri II?
The standard route via Southwest Ridge from Karzok features its main crux at the steep snow ridge and bergschrund crossing above Mentok High Camp at 19020ft.
What camp progression is established on the Mentok Kangri II expedition?
The progression starts at the base village Karzok (15075ft). We set up Mentok Base Camp at 17380ft, followed by Mentok High Camp at 19020ft. The summit push is launched directly from the High Camp.
What boots are mandatory for this expedition?
For Mentok Kangri II, B2 or B3 stiff-soled mountaineering boots are required. Single leather boots are acceptable if they have high insulation ratings, but double boots are recommended for early summer or late autumn departures.
Where is the nearest medical emergency facility and evacuation route for Mentok Kangri II?
Evacuation is via Retreat to Karzok Base, evacuate by vehicle to Leh SNM Hospital.. The nearest hospital is located in Leh (SNM Hospital), which has facilities for treating acute mountain sickness (AMS) and traumatic injuries.
How do we source water during the expedition camps?
At Mentok Base Camp, water is sourced directly from glacial meltwater streams using filtration. At higher camps like Mentok High Camp, all running water is frozen, requiring team members to collect clean snow and melt it using high-altitude multi-fuel stoves.
What is the acclimatization rotation schedule for this climb?
We follow the "climb high, sleep low" rule. Climbers will perform a load ferry from Mentok Base Camp to Mentok High Camp, caching gear, and return to sleep at the lower camp. This triggers red blood cell production before moving up permanently.
Is satellite communication available during the expedition?
Satellite phones (like Thuraya or Iridium) are restricted in India. However, the expedition leader carries an authorized satellite communicator (like Garmin inReach) for weather reports and emergency SOS signals, registered with local authorities.
Where is the last ATM and cellular network location?
The last ATM and cellular connectivity is at Karzok or the nearest highway town. Once we trek past the road head, there is zero mobile signal, and satellite/VHF radios are the only forms of communication.
What is the local cultural significance of Mentok Kangri II?
The nomads of Changpa believe the peak resembles a lotus flower emerging from the sacred waters of Tso Moriri.
What is the estimated success rate for summits on Mentok Kangri II?
The average success rate is approximately 70%. Success depends heavily on weather windows, team physical preparation, and individual acclimatization.
What high-altitude emergency medicines are carried?
The medical kit contains Diamox (acetazolamide) for AMS, Dexamethasone for HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema), and Nifedipine for HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema). Oxygen cylinders are kept at Base Camp and High Camp for emergencies.
What is the overall climbing difficulty grade of Mentok Kangri II?
The climbing grade of Mentok Kangri II is classified as PD+. This means it involves moderate glacier travel, simple snow slopes, and low-angle scree requiring basic crampon and ice axe usage.
Are there any mandatory physical or trekking prerequisites for the Mentok Kangri II expedition?
Yes. We recommend a history of high-altitude treks above 15,000ft (like Roopkund or Goechala) and a high level of cardiovascular fitness (10km run under 55 minutes).
Is an IMF peak permit and Liaison Officer required for Mentok Kangri II?
Yes. All peaks in India require booking through the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF). For Mentok Kangri II (6250m), an IMF peak permit is required, but a Liaison Officer is generally not mandated unless requested by the IMF for international teams.
What is the best season to attempt the Mentok Kangri II expedition?
The ideal window is July to September. Since Ladakh lies in a rain-shadow zone, it escapes the Indian monsoons, offering dry weather, open roads, and stable glacier crossings.
What is the technical crux of the standard route on Mentok Kangri II?
The standard route via Southwest Ridge from Karzok features its main crux at the steep snow ridge and bergschrund crossing above Mentok High Camp at 19020ft.
What camp progression is established on the Mentok Kangri II expedition?
The progression starts at the base village Karzok (15075ft). We set up Mentok Base Camp at 17380ft, followed by Mentok High Camp at 19020ft. The summit push is launched directly from the High Camp.
What boots are mandatory for this expedition?
For Mentok Kangri II, B2 or B3 stiff-soled mountaineering boots are required. Single leather boots are acceptable if they have high insulation ratings, but double boots are recommended for early summer or late autumn departures.
Where is the nearest medical emergency facility and evacuation route for Mentok Kangri II?
Evacuation is via Retreat to Karzok Base, evacuate by vehicle to Leh SNM Hospital.. The nearest hospital is located in Leh (SNM Hospital), which has facilities for treating acute mountain sickness (AMS) and traumatic injuries.
How do we source water during the expedition camps?
At Mentok Base Camp, water is sourced directly from glacial meltwater streams using filtration. At higher camps like Mentok High Camp, all running water is frozen, requiring team members to collect clean snow and melt it using high-altitude multi-fuel stoves.
What is the acclimatization rotation schedule for this climb?
We follow the "climb high, sleep low" rule. Climbers will perform a load ferry from Mentok Base Camp to Mentok High Camp, caching gear, and return to sleep at the lower camp. This triggers red blood cell production before moving up permanently.
Is satellite communication available during the expedition?
Satellite phones (like Thuraya or Iridium) are restricted in India. However, the expedition leader carries an authorized satellite communicator (like Garmin inReach) for weather reports and emergency SOS signals, registered with local authorities.
Where is the last ATM and cellular network location?
The last ATM and cellular connectivity is at Karzok or the nearest highway town. Once we trek past the road head, there is zero mobile signal, and satellite/VHF radios are the only forms of communication.
What is the local cultural significance of Mentok Kangri II?
The nomads of Changpa believe the peak resembles a lotus flower emerging from the sacred waters of Tso Moriri.
What is the estimated success rate for summits on Mentok Kangri II?
The average success rate is approximately 70%. Success depends heavily on weather windows, team physical preparation, and individual acclimatization.
What high-altitude emergency medicines are carried?
The medical kit contains Diamox (acetazolamide) for AMS, Dexamethasone for HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema), and Nifedipine for HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema). Oxygen cylinders are kept at Base Camp and High Camp for emergencies.
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