Summit Window

When is it climbable?

Summit Weather Window

Severe from November through winter

Alpine Start

01:00 AM – 09:00 AM

Avoid afternoon wind deterioration and high temperatures melting snow bridges.

Forecast Source

Meteoblue / Mountain-Forecast

Verify satellite forecasting reports before final summit push.

Conditions by Month

May

30 km/h
4 rain days

Jun

25 km/h
6 rain days

Oct

40 km/h
2 rain days

Sep

35 km/h
4 rain days

Lightning Risk

July & August

May-June provides optimal snow conditions, while September-October offers excellent visibility. The monsoon must be avoided due to landslide risk and high crevasse hazard.

Season at a Glance

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Peak
Recommended
Shoulder
Closed

Editor's Notes

Editor's Insight

May-June offers consolidated snow corridors, while September-October post-monsoon offers stable skies but extremely cold summit temperatures.

Month by Month

What each month looks like

January

Conditions

Extreme winter conditions.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero temperatures and high winter avalanche risk.

-45C to -30CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Closed. Extreme winter conditions.

February

Conditions

Extreme winter conditions.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero temperatures and high winter avalanche risk.

-43C to -28CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Closed. Extreme winter conditions.

March

Conditions

Deep unconsolidated snow.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero temperatures and high winter avalanche risk.

-33C to -18CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Early season. Deep snow accumulations.

April

Conditions

Early season with lingering deep snow.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero temperatures and high winter avalanche risk.

-29C to -14CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Early season. Deep snow accumulations.

May

Recommended

Conditions

Pre-monsoon window opening. Consolidated snow cover.

Crowds

low

-25C to -10CSnow: MediumSky Clarity:

Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.

June

Recommended

Conditions

Prime conditions. Consolidated snow cover allows for secure fixed ropes on the 45-50 degree snow-ice face.

Crowds

low

-22C to -7CSnow: MediumSky Clarity:

Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.

July

Conditions

Monsoon downpours. Active landslides.

Crowds

low

Heavy monsoon rains, landslide risks on approach roads, and high crevasse hazard on East Kamet Glacier.

-20C to -9CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Peak season in rain shadow. River crossings swell.

August

Conditions

Monsoon downpours. Active landslides.

Crowds

low

Heavy monsoon rains, landslide risks on approach roads, and high crevasse hazard on East Kamet Glacier.

-21C to -10CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Peak season in rain shadow. River crossings swell.

September

Recommended

Conditions

Post-monsoon window. Consolidated snow cover and excellent visibility.

Crowds

low

-25C to -12CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.

October

Recommended

Conditions

Consolidated snow cover, excellent visibility, and stable weather.

Crowds

low

-30C to -16CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.

November

Conditions

Winter onset with rapid temperature drops.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero temperatures and severe jet stream impact causing extreme wind chill on Meade's Col.

-35C to -21CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Winter setting in. Sub-zero temperatures rapid.

December

Conditions

Extreme winter conditions.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero temperatures and severe jet stream impact causing extreme wind chill on Meade's Col.

-44C to -29CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Closed. Extreme winter conditions.

Photography & Light Conditions

Sunrise Spot

Summit ridge / high camp looking east.

Recommended Lenses

16-35mm wide angle70-200mm telephoto

Astrophotography

10/10Milky Way: may, jun, jul, aug, sep

Drones not permitted

Requires DGCA permission; usually restricted due to close proximity to borders.

Sub-zero temperatures rapidly draining batteries. Keep devices in inner clothing pockets.

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