Summit Window

When is it climbable?

Summit Weather Window

Severe from November through winter

Alpine Start

01:00 AM – 09:00 AM

Avoid afternoon wind deterioration and high temperatures melting snow bridges.

Forecast Source

Meteoblue / Mountain-Forecast

Verify satellite forecasting reports before final summit push.

Conditions by Month

May

30 km/h
4 rain days

Jun

25 km/h
6 rain days

Oct

40 km/h
2 rain days

Sep

35 km/h
4 rain days

Lightning Risk

July & August

May-June and September-October offer the most reliable conditions for glacier travel. April and November serve as shoulder seasons, suitable for experienced teams equipped for colder or transitional conditions.

Season at a Glance

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Peak
Recommended
Shoulder
Closed

Editor's Notes

Editor's Insight

May-June offers consolidated snow corridors, while September-October post-monsoon offers stable skies but extremely cold summit temperatures.

Month by Month

What each month looks like

January

Conditions

Extreme winter conditions with severe blizzards.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero temperatures and high avalanche risk on steep slopes dominate.

-28C to -13CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Closed. Extreme winter conditions.

February

Conditions

Extreme winter conditions with deep snow accumulation.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero temperatures and high avalanche risk on steep slopes dominate.

-26C to -11CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Closed. Extreme winter conditions.

March

Conditions

Early season with deep, unconsolidated snow.

Crowds

none

Unconsolidated snow increases avalanche risk on the 45-degree summit slopes.

-21C to -6CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Early season. Deep snow accumulations.

April

Recommended

Conditions

Transitional month with warming daytime temperatures but significant lingering snow.

Crowds

low

-17C to -2CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Early season. Deep snow accumulations.

May

Recommended

Conditions

Consolidated snow provides better bridging over the crevassed glacier.

Crowds

low

-13C to 2CSnow: MediumSky Clarity:

Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.

June

Recommended

Conditions

Pre-monsoon warmth with generally stable weather and consolidated snow.

Crowds

low

-10C to 5CSnow: MediumSky Clarity:

Prime pre-monsoon window. Good snow stability.

July

Conditions

Heavy monsoon rainfall on the approach.

Crowds

none

Heavy rainfall increases landslide risk on the approach and weakens snow bridges.

-8C to 3CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Monsoon danger. Landslides and severe rains.

August

Conditions

Heavy monsoon rainfall on the approach.

Crowds

none

Heavy rainfall increases landslide risk on the approach and weakens snow bridges.

-9C to 2CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Monsoon danger. Landslides and severe rains.

September

Recommended

Conditions

Clear skies and stable weather, though crevasses may be more exposed.

Crowds

low

-13C to 0CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.

October

Recommended

Conditions

Clear skies and stable weather, though crevasses may be more exposed.

Crowds

low

-18C to -4CSnow: LowSky Clarity:

Crystal clear skies. Best visibility of the year.

November

Recommended

Conditions

Cold but stable weather. Rapid temperature drops require robust cold-weather gear.

Crowds

low

-23C to -9CSnow: HighSky Clarity:

Winter setting in. Sub-zero temperatures rapid.

December

Conditions

Extreme winter conditions with severe blizzards.

Crowds

none

Sub-zero temperatures and high avalanche risk dominate.

-27C to -12CSnow: Very HighSky Clarity:

Closed. Extreme winter conditions.

Photography & Light Conditions

Sunrise Spot

Summit ridge / high camp looking east.

Recommended Lenses

16-35mm wide angle70-200mm telephoto

Astrophotography

10/10Milky Way: may, jun, jul, aug, sep

Drones not permitted

Requires DGCA permission; usually restricted due to close proximity to borders.

Sub-zero temperatures rapidly draining batteries. Keep devices in inner clothing pockets.

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